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Author Topic: Autotrigger Info Guide  (Read 1272 times)
Koa
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« on: September 27, 2008, 06:52:15 PM »

Autotrigger Installation rough draft no pics or vids yet


things you need:

1) trigger plate with flat spot or a Dye/32 degrees pivot
2) Pump rod with hole drilled into it
3) Trigger frame with safety hole
4) And most importantly....the ability to think.....no stupid people please



if you have a Dye Pivot frame(or any knockoff) the AT cam Drops right in with no mods to the frame, i hate all who have them i am jealous.

the only thing is to make sure the lug has enough adjustment, the DYE will have more Sear travel than a slider so you cant just hold the trigger down on the cam then tighten the lever to the cam and then adjust the lug, you will run out of lug length.

adjust the cam and lever by spinning the cam by holding the lever until it releases the hammer, then pull the cam out of the frame, and adjust the lever so it lines up to the hole in the pump rod.

always make sure than when the sear is released the lever is about 1-2mms forward of the pump rod hole, if its past it wont fire....ever.
adjust the firing point with the hammer lug.



if you have a slider frame

you need to mod the trigger plate so theres a flat spot, to do this I use Titanium Putty from Devcon, it does wear off a little but i have had the same slider with Ti Putty for 2 years and haven't had to replace the putty yet, also it slight wears the cam polishing it like how 600 grit paper would....i have been using a cam 10 years old (using the putty plate for 2 years) and its still ok




to time the cam to the trigger, put the cam into the safety hole and hold the trigger down, then screw the lever to the cam loosely and push the lever about 2mm forward of the pump rod hole, tighten down and adjust the firing point with the hammer lug.



Adjusting the Hammer Lug

if your autotrigger releases the backblock too early youll lose FPS, too close it wont fire consistently, to get the release perfect(when the backblock is about 1/8th from the body) adjust the hammer lug in small increments, the further down the lug the closer the release point is to the body, and vice versa when you raise the lug
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Koa
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2008, 01:55:56 AM »

how to mod your trigger plate

Step 1
get tools and material

Tape, File and Titanium Putty
i know TI putty works good, there might be other putties that can hold up, but i know for sure that JB weild, Steel putty(the clay like one in the bars) doesnt work.  Feel Free to experiment....its not hard to take off the putty if it dont work.....if it was...that would be perfect for this use

Step 2
measure where you need to putty up
you need to make sure to put the tape where you want the putty, to do this tape the plate and put it in the frame, the tape should be forward of the safety hole


Step 2.5
when you measure up the plate with the safety hole you might notice the trigger plate will be blocking the hole, you can if you want to grind, file or cut away the trigger plate before you apply the putty, i HIGHLY recommend this to anyone wanting to mod an AKA or ANS plate, because of the amount of metal they have at the safety hole and their hardness



Step 3
Apply putty
Following the Instructions mix the putty then apply where you taped the plate, being sure to not put on too much....or youll have some good fun filing later on.  when you got the putty filled in, put another piece to tape on the other side of the trigger plate to hold the putty in place.....if you get extra putty bering pushed out, use a wet cotton swab to remove excess or to clean up spills

Then let dry according to instructions

when your done it should look like this



Step 4
File putty so it doesnt block safety hole
unless your some sort of super putty master youll need to file off excess, and probably some of your plate as well if you didnt do that beforehand.
Take off the tape and put the plate into the frame....if the sides of the plate have putty sticking out of them...then you might want to remove that before you put the plate in the frame.  then when you put the plate in notice how much of the putty or frame blocks the safety hole.  Remove the excess putty so there is a nice flat vertical side to it
« Last Edit: October 20, 2008, 01:57:44 AM by Koa » Logged

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