Heebs
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« on: May 20, 2010, 12:12:51 AM » |
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Hey Folks, I'm installing my UTB and MQ2 valve and I had a few questions I figured you guys would have the answer to.
Using the SD UTB install manual as a guide I have the "A" type wiring harness.
1. Seeing as this is a pump, I dont need a bunch of the wires in the harness, how do I remove these without cutting any wires?
2. I wanted to run my board using an on/off slide switch, what do I need to wire as the manual only shows a membrane pad setup?
3. I've read that you can run the board with or without a capacitor, is there any advantage to running with a cap?
4. Am I correct that I do not need the "EP Valve Pwr, Eye LED Pwr, Eye Sensor Pwr, 5V Out, and Membrane Pwr Button" wires?
Sorry if this seems a bit garbled, I haven't slept in a while. I'll probably have some more questions down the road and thanks in advance for the help.
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Koa
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« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2010, 12:18:12 AM » |
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1)
there is tabs holding the crimps into the molex/housings, lift them up with a needle and pull out the wires you dont need
3)
for a pump you dont need it, i hear its only needed when using dual noid setups
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drg
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« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2010, 10:48:22 AM » |
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2. The board is intended to use a momentary switch (button), so you would want a momentary slide switch. 4.  |
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« Last Edit: May 20, 2010, 10:48:58 AM by drg »
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Heebs
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« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2010, 11:17:44 AM » |
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Could you wire the board so that it is permanently "on" and then control the power by having a switch wired to control the battery connection?
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drg
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« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2010, 08:54:46 AM » |
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I don't believe so, because of the nature of the button sensing circuit. You have to be able to release the button, or it won't work.
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Heebs
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« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2010, 09:45:38 AM » |
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Hum, talking with Damon, a plain slide switch is supposed to work, I guess I'll find out soon.
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Heebs
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« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2010, 03:57:31 AM » |
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The slide switch works fine, you need to toggle it back and forth several times as it seems like it's cycling through modes (eyes on/off etc).
My MQ2 is leaking around the cutout for the solenoid wire. Ideas?
^^ Disregard, my reg was outputting too high of a pressure. Fixed it.
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« Last Edit: May 25, 2010, 04:54:29 AM by Heebs »
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drg
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« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2010, 01:37:35 PM » |
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Yes, you can use a slide switch and manually toggle it. A little unweildy but it works, if you are buying a switch anyway get a momentary. You can't have no switch/always on, as you mentioned earlier.
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Heebs
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« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2010, 10:21:17 AM » |
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Okay I have my dwell at 4 or 5. I get the solenoid to pop but no gas release from the valve. What am I doing wrong, I followed the above wiring diagram and the installation instructions from KAJohnson's website. HELP!!!!
Pressure is right below 300, valve doesn't leak. The valve screw is out as to rule out interference with the poppit.
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« Last Edit: June 06, 2010, 10:24:46 AM by Heebs »
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drg
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« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2010, 09:27:08 PM » |
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The solenoid pops? what do you mean?
at times it takes some doing to free the poppet and I have even seen fresh valves (brass body) that need polishing/lubing/encouragement to get moving. The older valves occasionally would hang up on first use too, and you could "hit" it with air to get it moving (i.e. repeatedly gas/degas it while firing).
But first, check to make sure you have a fresh battery.
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