The Autotrigger Strikes Back!!!

[Koa]

heres how to make an autotrigger for a 45 slider frame

Step 1, get parts
Autotrigger Cam (probably stolen off of friends marker)
Cam Lever, or Sleeve
Trigger plate with Flat spot for the cam (they're everywhere)

Step 2,

Step 3, Profit!!!

Step For, get tools
youll need a Lathe, Turning Tool, Mill, 3/8ths End Mill

Step 5teen, do it
get the cam that you stole off of some kids marker and turn it down to fit into the 45 frame so it fits like so note the high quality pics


Step 6, swear because it dont work
forgetting that the CCM cam has a larder dia than a 45 frames cam you realize that the cam's flat spot isnt as deep as it should be

Step Sleven, praise the heavens than you had a mill laying around
make that flat spot deeper

Step MC Eiht, reassemble
and your on your way to the stockclass player's favorite nit to pick




oh but if you cant get that easy to find trigger plate with the flat spot....RAWR TOTAL AIRSMITH ACTION!!!


that is some titanium putty my friend had laying around....apply every 2-3 games...hahahahaha nah its pretty strong putty (get it?)

[Koa]

UPDATE!!!!
Don't Use Titanium Putty!!!!

the small grains of Titanium in the putty will end up wearing down the cam much like lapping compound or a silicone polishing disk


I recently figured this out when my release point of my trigger kept moving back more and more in the pull requiring me to move the pump rods hole further back

also its not like i can lower the lug....the worn part of the cam makes for a flat spot in its rotation.....and the trigger doesnt move forward or back

[Koa]

actually....USE titanium putty....JB weild is too soft.....and the TI will as least last for a while

[Koa]

BTW your plates should be filled in like this

[Koa]

well i have been trying to make my own ATs since i found out TI Putty holds up well filling in the trigger plate.


i tried to make a kit like Paintball Maxx's, but couldn't find the Sleeves


So i tried to slot the bent arm


but my mills talble isnt as strudy as i hoped and my skills lacking this was my result


so i said the hell with it and just made the cams so i can swap it with a CCM AT kit, i wanted to do the PBMaxx style more than the Sherdian/CCM slot style, but ill take what i can get....and i got come of those arms from friends who bought AT kits with the longer arms


here is the result

[Koa]

Thoughts on how to fill in the trigger plate with putty and removing excess material:

if the trigger is fully forward and there is anything you can see in the safty hole the AT cam will not fit in, so you need to either be able to take out the trigger slide the cam in and then put the trigger back in or you need to clear anything blocking the safety hole the ANS Quickfire frame i have and others i seen have a small part of the trigger plate exposed so i had to remove that small amount......problem is the ANS Quickfire plate is the hardest plate i have ever tried to mod

[hawaiianking]

koa
you ever figure out the ans trigger plate?  what makes it more difficult?

[Koa]

i figured it out.....thats why its 100 if im doing a complete mod with one.
Its just REALLY REALLY HARD....dulled my end mill bit trying to cut one for more room for the cam, so you gotta grind it for an hour or so

[Koa]

how to mod your trigger plate

Step 1
get tools and material

Tape, File and Titanium Putty
i know TI putty works good, there might be other putties that can hold up, but i know for sure that JB weild, Steel putty(the clay like one in the bars) doesnt work.  Feel Free to experiment....its not hard to take off the putty if it dont work.....if it was...that would be perfect for this use

Step 2
measure where you need to putty up
you need to make sure to put the tape where you want the putty, to do this tape the plate and put it in the frame, the tape should be forward of the safety hole


Step 2.5
when you measure up the plate with the safety hole you might notice the trigger plate will be blocking the hole, you can if you want to grind, file or cut away the trigger plate before you apply the putty, i HIGHLY recommend this to anyone wanting to mod an AKA or ANS plate, because of the amount of metal they have at the safety hole and their hardness



Step 3
Apply putty
Following the Instructions mix the putty then apply where you taped the plate, being sure to not put on too much....or youll have some good fun filing later on.  when you got the putty filled in, put another piece to tape on the other side of the trigger plate to hold the putty in place.....if you get extra putty bering pushed out, use a wet cotton swab to remove excess or to clean up spills

Then let dry according to instructions

when your done it should look like this



Step 4
File putty so it doesnt block safety hole
unless your some sort of super putty master youll need to file off excess, and probably some of your plate as well if you didnt do that beforehand.
Take off the tape and put the plate into the frame....if the sides of the plate have putty sticking out of them...then you might want to remove that before you put the plate in the frame.  then when you put the plate in notice how much of the putty or frame blocks the safety hole.  Remove the excess putty so there is a nice flat vertical side to it